Elka Panther 300 - Broken Key Contacts

[monoplex]

Hello,

I just bought this organ at a garage sale. Cracked it open and notice 4 broken key contact wires. I have intermediate knowledge of electronics, and know what a cold solder joint is. Should I even try to fix these? Anyone have schematics/manual or any information?? Thanks.

[monoplex]

any advice on a diy repair? or am I better off taking it in to be serviced.

[mtwallet]

post pics please
I had a panther 100 so maybe I can help

[monoplex]

workin on the photos. Is there a schematic/manual for the 300 that maybe could be cross referenced with, say a Vox or another panther series? Any info is appreciated, thanks.

[monoplex]

Well, it has been a few weeks and I have learned a whole lot about this organ. Sorry no pics. But I did do this:

1. took the footages out and cleaned all of the grease on them. This was an retarded task. I cant believe how much grease/lube was all over the contacts and footages. FILTHY!

2. replaced four key contact wires, using a .014 gauge "B" string from my electric guitar string set. This was the most difficult and fragile thing I have ever done. I did learn after the fact, that by using a steel guitar string for the key contact, made the action stiffer by just a bit. Also, I noticed that the original contacts are made of a brass? or some other non-magnetic mix. The steel string after being installed works great for a replacement, but seems to have become magnetic. Which means that once the key is pushed down that contact stays in place just a fraction of a sec. longer than the other contacts. could be troublesome down the road, but right now I am glad to be able to play it at all.

3. Again, having intermediate knowledge of electronics, and no device with which to check out the circuit. I resolved to re-flowing all of the solder connections on the troublesome boards. (i.e. G, G#, and B)

So far the organ plays in tune and everything seems to be working, EXCEPT
I can't figure out what the tone decay does. Does it have to do with a expression pedal, like some other combo's?
Also, I know that will have to replace some transistors soon and also some capacitors. I found replacements for the transistors, but the capacitors, I am having a hard time. The capacitor is made by ARCO and it reads .047/10 125v -

Sorry for blabbing on and on, but does the "10" in the equation mean +/- 10%? Does the " - " after the 125 volts mean that that side is negative?

I need to get a digi camera

[karl]

Hi Monoplex

2. replaced four key contact wires, using a .014 gauge "B" string from my electric guitar string set. This was the most difficult and fragile thing I have ever done. I did learn after the fact, that by using a steel guitar string for the key contact, made the action stiffer by just a bit. Also, I noticed that the original contacts are made of a brass? or some other non-magnetic mix. The steel string after being installed works great for a replacement, but seems to have become magnetic. Which means that once the key is pushed down that contact stays in place just a fraction of a sec. longer than the other contacts. could be troublesome down the road, but right now I am glad to be able to play it at all.

This is excellent info!!!

3. Again, having intermediate knowledge of electronics, and no device with which to check out the circuit. I resolved to re-flowing all of the solder connections on the troublesome boards. (i.e. G, G#, and B)

This was a very good move. This usually fixs quite a few things

Also, I know that will have to replace some transistors soon and also some capacitors. I found replacements for the transistors, but the capacitors, I am having a hard time. The capacitor is made by ARCO and it reads .047/10 125v -

Sorry for blabbing on and on, but does the "10" in the equation mean +/- 10%? Does the " - " after the 125 volts mean that that side is negative?

Before I answer, I need to know what kind of capacitor it is.

Is it a Electrolytic ( Looks like a small can ) Or a solid (looks like a glob of plastic.

Electrolytics have a negative side to them. Most solid types
don't.
Also how many leads come out of it?
And finally where is it? In the power supply maybe?

-Karl

[monoplex]

The capacitor is yellow and it does look like a cylinderical glob of plastic, and has a wire coming out of both ends. As far as where its located, they are located all over the organ. Some of them look like they could be "leaky" or bad. Since I reflowed the solder on the troublesome boards everything seems to be working so maybe I dont have a problem with the capacitors now.

Any Idea on the tone decay? I did find a divider that was labeled "perc." so I reflowed the solder contacts on that board, but still I am unable to notice a difference in sound after turning on the "tone decay" tab. Do I need a Volume? pedal for this effect??

Thanks Karl for all your posts and help.

[karl]

Hi Monoplex,
The non-electrolytic types tend to last almost forever if not overvoltaged or abused in some way.
Looking at ARCO's website it appears the majority of their products are non-electrolytic capacitors. So I believe you are OK.
BTW Try heating up that guitar string with a flame. This will usually "knock" the magnetism out of it.

As far as the tone decay, sorry don't know. A schematic would
certainly help. I did find some info on a different model of ELKA
Panther that says it provides a percussive effect. It uses a mixture of bass tone that is shaped with an optical circuit
to provide an attack effect to other tones that are selected.

Can somebody help here?

- Karl

[mtwallet]

May 25, 2009 4:17:50 GMT -5 monoplex said:

2. replaced four key contact wires, using a .014 gauge "B" string from my electric guitar string set. This was the most difficult and fragile thing I have ever done.

;DI remember when i did it too ; yeah the guitar string works well

about the capacitor, it's something you can find easily, maybe the thing has changed, but it works the same

[monoplex]

I found out that the tone decay is controlled by a LCR or light controlled resistor. which means there is a light bulb that controls it, which I found and replaced. Now, when I turn on the tone decay the volume slowly fades out completely, and once I turn the tone decay off the sound returns but only at a very low volume.
One more question when replacing transistors, if I get a replacement and the numbers match exactly, do I still need to know NPN or PNP? If I do need to know that, will I need a schematic or can I get around that? I have a few SFT 352 that will need to be replaced.
I hope I am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel on this thing or maybe it is the glow from a burning combo organ, who knows.

[karl]

Hi Monoplex,

The part number of a transistor is specific to it's type. So if you have an identical part number then your OK. If the transistor had a different Pin-out or different structure ( NPN or PNP) then the number will be different.

- Karl

[mintmissiles]

Hello,

I have a white (faded white) Panther 300 that could use some maintenance, but I was never sure how to open the plastic shell without cracking it or breaking it.

Could you provide some details on how you opened the plastic shell and were able to peek inside. I've never seen a manual for this thing, so I was always hesitant to mess with it since it's the only combo organ I have working at the moment, even though the Panther is probably only at 90% fully-functioning right now.

Some problem areas:
1) Two keys in the 8' treble section (white key section: G#, C#) get stuck when pressed and sustain the note until you pull them up
2) The Open Diapason 16' and Flute 8' are scratchy and do not fully sound on the 8' Treble section unless the voices are pressed hard in the ON position
3) I've never been able to use the bass section b/c I've never been able to locate a TRS plug that worked. Not sure if I was using the wrong type of plug or my bass section doesn't work. I'm able to use the the bass extension tab, so it's not a total loss...the bass sounds so good thru loud amps.

Any advice or suggestions on opening, repairing, restoring would be much appreciated.

I use the Panther a lot, so I want to get it fully functional.

Thanks

[rich]

Hi, There is or should be a screw on each side of the organ cover, I did not put any back on mine, remove these and then you need to remove the 6 control knobs, they attach to the shafts by a set screw, I always push all the stop tabs down and then you should be able to remove the cover. the edge of the cover fits in a slot the whole way around the case and may be tight if never removed, I usually work on the back corners of the cover 1st and then you should be able to work it off. IF you could, send a pic of the Panther,
Rich.